|
| Back to Contents Page |
Home Energy Index |
About Home Energy |
| Home Energy Home Page | Back Issues of Home Energy |
Home Energy Magazine Online November/December 1993
UTILITY BILLS
Leaking Electricity
by Alan Meier
Alan Meier is Executive Editor of Home Energy
In many electrical devices the "off"
switch is a lie. Sometimes appliances
"leak" electricity.
Many appliances leak electricity. That TV, VCR, or stereo (to name just a few
items) continues to draw small amounts of electricity even when providing no
service and switched off. Some examples of these appliances were described in
an earlier article (see "What Stays On When You Go Out," HE Jul/Aug '93,
p.31), but a Swedish researcher just published much more detailed measurements
on the widespread misrepresentation of the humble "off" switch. This study is
particularly useful because it provides data on new equipment.
Eje Sandberg visited several electronics stores in Sweden. He measured the
power consumption of over a hundred TVs, VCRs, and other domestic electronic
equipment when switched "on" and "off." The results are shown in the figures.
Sandberg concentrated on TVs, VCRs, and some audio equipment because he wanted
to measure the range in "off" electricity consumption. While these measurements
were made in Sweden, the international nature of the electronics industry means
that similar values would be found for TVs and other appliances in the United
States. Figure 1 shows the range of electricity consumption for four
appliances. All but four devices tested drew power when switched "off".
Sandberg found these results so surprising that he called it "leaking
electricity." TVs and VCRs had the highest power at "off"--many topped 10
Watts or 7 kWh/month. CD players were much less: 2-5 Watts.
What is this power used for? There are several applications. TVs must keep some
circuits energized in order to provide "instant on" and to receive
transmissions from the remote control. The penalty used to be much higher in
old tube TVs, however, the new, solid-state models are much more efficient.
Other features in TVs or VCRs requiring power are clocks and digital displays.
And the transformers for low-voltage halogen lights draw power even when the
lights are switched off.
Although 10 W is a tiny amount of power (less than $1/month), there are several
reasons why the leaking electricity deserves attention. First, most homes have
several of these appliances and they easily add up to $10/month. Second,
energized appliances represent a small but significant fire and shock hazard.
Switched-off appliances have been blamed for starting some home fires. Finally,
leaking electricity is a serious matter for those people on the electrical
frontier, relying on photovoltaic collectors for their electricity supplies.
Leaking electricity can drain storage batteries without warning.
Sandberg measured the power consumption of other appliances, including a
parabolic receiver and a telephone answering machine. The mean power draws for
those appliances (when turned off) are shown in Figure 2. Sandberg's results
are supplemented by measurements made by Pam Coxson in San Francisco. (These
items are marked with a "USA" after them.)
Plugging the Leaks
Sandberg has three recommendations regarding leaking electricity. While
these recommendations were proposed for Europe, they are just as relevant in
the United States. First, he proposes that all manufacturers declare their "no
load" losses, the power draw while switched off. (Presumably this would appear
on the appliance's nameplate.) Sandberg doubts if many consumers will change
their purchasing habits as a result of this new information, but they encourage
manufacturers to avoid the embarrassment of the declaration by redesigning
their equipment.
Second, Sandberg proposes that manufacturers be required to establish a "true
off" position. In many cases, this would mean that a 3-position switch would
replace the current 2-position switch. Again, most consumers would probably use
the "partial off" position, but at least they would realize that the television
or dustbuster was still drawing power.
Alternatively, a standard could be established to limit the amount of no-load
losses. For example, it might require low-voltage transformers to draw less
than 2 W during no-load mode. This might be more complicated to establish
(especially because most European countries lack any energy efficiency
standards).
Unplugging appliances is the simplest way to minimize consumption, though it is
not always possible, or at least not convenient. For the present, however, it
is important to recognize that leaking electricity is responsible for part of
the utility bill. n
Note
Sandberg's findings were published in "Proceedings of the 1993 ECEEE
(European Council for an Energy Efficient Economy) Summer Study," held in
Rungstedgard, Denmark.
A Refresher Course on Energy and Power
When an appliance draws 100 watts, what is its monthly energy cost?
This is a simple calculation but it requires a clear understanding of the
difference between energy and power. Electrical power is the flow of
electricity (like gallons/minute of water), but the monthly bill is an amount
of electricity (like total gallons) usually expressed as kilowatt-hours. To
convert the flow to an amount of energy (such as kilowatt hours), one must
multiply by the time, that is, one month.
The trick, however, is to use the correct units for "time." The simplest
approach is to express all power in the form of kilowatts (that is, in
thousands of watts). This is especially convenient, because the rates are
typically expressed in cost per kWh. When using kilowatts, the correct time
unit is "hours." Then the time is simply the number of hours in a month, that
is:
hours in a month = 30 days/month x 24 hours/day = 720 hours
The 100 W bulb is a 0.1 kW bulb. If it operates constantly for a month, then
the energy consumed is:
monthly use = 0.1 kW 2 720 hr/month = 72 kWh/month
If electricity costs 10 cents/kWh, then that light bulb cost about $7.20 per
month to operate. The most common error in the calculation is forgetting to
convert the power from Watts to kilowatts, resulting in an answer that is a
thousand times too high. (Note that the official designations are W for watts,
kW for kilowatts, and kWh for kilowatt-hours.)

Figure 1. Measurements of power demand for four kinds of appliances while
switched "off."Source: Eje Sandberg

Figure 2. Measurements of power demand for other appliances while switched
"off."Source: Eje Sandberg and Pam Coxson
Related Articles
"Building an Energy-Efficient Home Office" (Geltz) "Chasing the Golden Carrot" (Frantz) "Eliminating CFCs Without Regrets" (Houghton) "Hauling in the Culprits: Michigan's Bounty Pilot" (Witte and Kushler) "Home Alone--Living Off the Grid" (Casebolt) "How Accurate Are Yellow Labels" (Meier) "Is That Old Refrigerator Worth Saving?" (Meier) "Maintenance Doesn't Necessarily Lower Energy Use" (Litt, Megowan, and Meier) "New Standards Begin, But Will Rebates Continue?" (Morrill) "Recycling Refrigerators: Whose Responsibility?" (Nelson) "Refrigerator Replacement in Florida: A Case Study" (Parker and Stedman) "Remodeling Kitchens: A Smorgasbord of Energy Savings" (Sullivan) "SMUD's Refrigerator Graveyard--Conditions of the Deceased" (Bos) "Understanding Power Quality" (De Almeida) "Waterbed Heating: Uncovering Energy Savings in the Bedroom" (Rieger) "What Stays On When You Go Out" (Meier) "What's Wrong with Refrigerator Energy Ratings?" (Proctor)
| Back to Contents Page |
Home Energy Index |
About Home Energy |
| Home Energy Home Page | Back Issues of Home Energy |
Home Energy can be reached at: contact@homeenergy.org
Home Energy magazine -- Please read our Copyright Notice
|