Finding the HolesThe first question you need to answer to find duct leakage in mobile homes is, Where is the air barrier? The duct system is always contained in the zone between the road barrier (a layer of tar paper, fiberboard, or woven polyethylene) and the subfloor (see Figure 1); either the road barrier or the subfloor may be the air barrier. If the road barrier has large gaps, the floor is the air barrier and the ducts are outside of it. If the home has a longitudinal joist system and a fiberboard road barrier, the air barrier will change with each joist cavity (that is, a hole in the fiberboard of one joist cavity will not admit air into an adjoining cavity). In site-built homes, the technician can sometimes choose between sealing the ducts or bringing them within the air barrier so any leakage is to the heated space. However, mobile home ducts should be sealed, because the likelihood of making a road barrier airtight for the remaining life of the home is slim.Fixing the HolesMost mobile home furnaces in the Northwest are electric. But there may be combustion appliances in the home, and technicians should perform safety tests on these appliances before sealing ducts (see "Combustion Safety Checks: How Not to Kill Your Clients," HE Mar/Apr '95, p. 19).Unlike site-built dwellings, 95% of mobile homes have no return ducts. This provides one less opportunity for leakage. Typically the air handler sucks the air through a grille in the furnace closet door. However, having this single return will cause pressure imbalances that increase infiltration and duct losses when interior doors are shut. The Furnace to Plenum Connection. Delta-T crews have found the sleeve connection between the furnace and the plenum to be the biggest hole in the system, especially in mobile homes where the joists run across the width of the home. This connection is often misaligned, crumpled, or very leaky. Any tape that may have been applied here is exposed to radiant gain directly from the heating elements, shortening its life. The repair can often be made by going in from the top via the air handler. If an air conditioner or heat pump coil prohibits access from the top of the home, the crew must go under the house and cut the bottom of the plenum open directly beneath the air handler to gain access to this joint. Boot to Floor and Boot to Plenum Connections. If the house has been moved a few times, these connections are probably in bad shape. Angle drills and patches of sheet metal sealed with mastic help to make these repairs go faster. Slip Joint Connections. In a slip joint
connection, one piece of extruded duct work is slipped into or over another.
Usually this joint is very poor, and major reconstructive surgery is needed:
cut open the road barrier; cut a large hole in the bottom of the duct;
seal the top and sides of the duct, adding pieces of sheet metal if necessary;
close the hole in the duct and seal it; and seal the road barrier.
The Ends of the Plenum. The plenum usually runs the entire length of the house regardless of where the registers are located, so it may extend 8-10 ft beyond the last register. In some cases, the method used to close off the ends of the plenum is temporary at best. Making a sheet metal dam at the downstream side of the last register and sealing with duct mastic is a good way to fix bad end caps. However, Delta-T crews have seen few mobile homes that actually need this treatment. Taking pressure pan readings and doing good visual inspections can stop a crew from sealing a "virtual" leak. Crossover Connections. There are many stories of double-wide mobile homes with a $500 heating bill for January due to a crossover duct disconnect. Many crossover ducts are crushed, impeding air flow to the other side. The crossover duct itself may be in good shape, but the various flanges and takeoffs used to connect the duct to the plenums on each side may be extremely leaky by design. Another common problem occurs when a setup crew hacks a hole in the plenum and fastens the crossover duct to the plenum with 50 yards of duct tape. If the crossover is leaky, we have found it best to replace it completely. We pay extra attention to the takeoffs. The Outside Air Make-Up Hole. Many mobile homes have a sheet metal connector that links the bottom of the furnace to the crawlspace. The purpose of this connector is to draw air from the crawlspace into the furnace (when it's operating) and distribute it through the duct system. Depending on its size and on its location within the furnace cabinet, the connector can draw a substantial amount of fresh crawlspace air into the mobile home. The decision to seal the connectors off is based upon the overall tightness of the home (if the house is really tight, don't fix it). Even if connectors function as makeup air inlets, the crawl space is probably not the best source of makeup air. The Furnace of No Return. One brand of
furnace has no cold air return cut in the top of the air handler and usually
has no grille in the furnace door closet. The door may have two narrow
slits to draw inside air. The furnace is equipped with a crawlspace connector
that draws return air from under the house. The entire furnace closet develops
negative pressure whenever the furnace comes on, drawing almost all the
air for return through the crawlspace connector. To correct this problem,
our crews seal off the connector, cut the largest hole possible in the
top of the furnace, and place a return in the furnace closet door. A filter
slot is added to the top of the furnace.
Many Unhappy Returns. The 5%-10% of homes that have ceiling or belly return systems are doubly cursed. Not only are there the usual supply-side problems to fix, but the return system is a catastrophically stupid design that must be fixed. The two basic systems (each with its own variations) are roof and belly returns (the belly is the zone between the floor and the road barrier). In these systems the return registers are cut in the floor or ceiling and are not connected to any ductwork whatsoever. There is a large hole in the furnace closet, ceiling, or floor. The belly or the space between the ceiling and the roof is used as a nonducted return plenum. There are several problems with these nonducted systems. First, drawing return air from zones containing fiberglass insulation is never a good idea. Second, they are always very leaky. Fixing them involves sealing all the return grilles and the furnace closet return hole (we use sheet metal) and cutting a return grille into the furnace door closet. It is not unusual to achieve a house leakage reduction of 1,000 CFM50 with this repair. Just Plain Dumb Holes. Humans have a limitless capacity to accidentally (or deliberately) punch, cut, puncture, rip, and otherwise mutilate the duct system of a mobile home. A good visual inspection and a protocol that retests tightness are critical if the crew is to find these holes. Among our favorite just plain dumb holes are
Estimating SavingsHeating and cooling system efficiency losses are a combination of conductive loss, mechanically induced infiltration when the air handler comes on, and direct air leakage. Although current Delta-T protocol targets duct air sealing only, one can make a fairly reliable approximation of distribution efficiency improvement.To estimate energy savings, use exterior duct leakage measurements at 25 Pa as the basis, since normal operating pressures are often close to this value. Operating pressure is often higher in heat pump systems, so the exterior leakage at 50 Pa can be used, or an extrapolation from the 25 Pa exterior leakage measurement. The next step is to express air leakage as a percentage of the HVAC system's air handler flow. This percentage is the supply leakage fraction, and describes the portion of conditioned air that doesn't make it to the supply registers. The most commonly found furnace blowers deliver remarkably consistent flow over the range of external static pressures encountered in normal operation. However, in most cases, the air handler does not deliver the flow listed in the operations manual. So it is best to measure the air handler flow to determine the supply leakage fraction.
Measuring air handler flow is not straightforward. The best approach is to use a Duct Blaster in combination with a calibrated flow hood. The flow hood should be one that is most reliable within the customary flow range for residential supply registers (50-150 CFM). Select a register far from the air handler, since air from the house sometimes flows into the register near the air handler. Turn on the furnace in normal operating mode and measure the flow through the selected register. Also measure the temperature of the air stream (don't rely on the flow hood thermometer, if it has one) in order to account for the expansion of heated air. (This step can probably be skipped if the furnace is only on for a couple of minutes and the auditor is pressed for time.) Finally, measure the static pressure inside the flow hood with a Pitot tube or other static pressure tip. This value will be the reference pressure. Set up the Duct Blaster and perform leakage tests. At the end of the leakage tests, adjust the Duct Blaster so that the reference register flow and pressure match the flow and pressure produced by the furnace under normal operation. Assuming that the Duct Blaster is set up properly to supply all flow to the home's duct system, the flow through the Duct Blaster is the air handler flow. In retrofit situations, one measurement of the air handler flow should be sufficient. The pre- and post-retrofit measurements of exterior duct leakage at 25 Pa can be divided by the air handler flow to find the pre- and post-retrofit supply leakage fractions. The supply leakage fraction is a direct contributor to overall heating system efficiency loss; that is, if there is a 10% supply leakage fraction, a home with no conductive losses from ducts and no mechanically induced infiltration will have an overall heating system efficiency of 90%. So if the retrofit produces a reduction in the supply leakage fraction from 10% to 5%, the retrofit should (all else being equal) provide an overall benefit to the homeowner of 5%. Sealing ducts in homes with high heat loss rates
(calculated by multiplying U-value by surface area by temperature difference)
will save more energy than in homes with low heat loss rates. For example,
we looked at an older, single-wide mobile home in two Northwest climates-Portland,
Oregon, with long-term base 65F heating degree-days (HDD65) of 4,520, and
Redmond, Oregon, with long-term HDD65 of 6,745 (see Table 2).
The home contained R-4 walls, an R-7 ceiling, R-7 belly wrap, and 115 ft2 of windows (U-value 1.1). A blower door test found leakage of 2,000 CFM50, or 0.9 air changes per hour under normal conditions (ACHnat). The measured air handler flow was 850 CFM. We ran a daily simulation program (SUNDAY 3.0) to estimate the annual heating load. Ecotope routinely uses this program to estimate heating loads and the impact of energy efficiency improvements on heating requirements. The estimated savings are significant. If the weatherization protocol included improving the conduction efficiency of the floor by replacing the crossover duct or adding belly insulation, more energy would be saved. These estimated savings are for homes heated with forced-air electric furnaces and no wood heat. If fossil fuel furnaces are used, the savings in input energy would be estimated by dividing the energy savings by the Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency (AFUE) of the furnace. Seal Those DuctsWe can make people more comfortable and save them money by fixing their ducts. By doing this intelligently, we are probably performing one of the most cost-effective and hassle-free fixes that can be done on manufactured homes. Further, with the invention of the pressure pan and the Duct Blaster, diagnostics and overall estimates of system efficiency improvement are within the reach of many weatherization crews.| Back to Contents Page | Home
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